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LESLIE CARON'S OWL'S NEST HOTEL RESTAURANT
Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes in Burgundy
From
Gene Kelly’s elegant dance partner in “An American in
Paris” and lovely dream girl "Gigi" to keeper of elegant Burgundian
restaurant and inn. In 1990, iconic French film “auteur” Jean
Renoir told film star Leslie Caron of a unique dilapidated 16th Century
boathouse
on the
Yonne River in the medieval town of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne about an hour
from Paris in northwest Burgundy. She bought the place and turned it
into her dream restaurant and bed & breakfast style guest hotel “auberge” and
has been hoatsing the well-traveled ever since.
The gourmet restaurant with open-beamed ceilings, lush
flowers and tree shaded terrace seating facing west across the river
where it flows underneath the ageless St. Nicolas Bridge provides a perfect
romantic view of a Burgundy
sunset while dining on a Michelin Star menu of French cuisine by Japanese
master chef, Daïsuke Inagaki. A fascinating seasonal menu of traditional
French Cuisine with the occasional twist ranging from Duck Foie Gras
to Quail in Sesame Seeds, Guinea Fowl with Truffles to Yakitori and a
fine list of regional wines. The Inn is managed by the chef's wife Dominique
while the famous movie star owner’s presence is more likely to
be found in the photographs and memorabilia on the walls.
The
town of Villenueve-sur-Yonne was new when founded by French King Louis
VII in 1163 at the boundary
of Burgundy
and Champagne regions and originally named Villenueve-le-Roi (New Village
of the King) but was changed during the French Revolution to more egalatarian
"sur-Yonne" town on the river. Saint Loius was a resident of the
city before departing for
the Crusades and a city mayor was infamously guillotined after WWII.
The town of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne is still surrounded by a partly intact
wall
with
stone gates at either
end north
and south,
the gates of Sens and Joigny. The Sens Gate dates from the 13th
Century and still retains its medieval character, the Gate of Joigny
was rebuilt in the 16th century. The city between the gates is easily
walked from one end to the other in ten minutes and marked by the gothic
Notre Dame and later Baroque church at the center.
The antique character of the
town where it resides is retained by the aurberge of the Owls Nest.
It’s owner’s love of antiques
shows in her personal decoration choices for the four available rooms
upstairs from the restaurant. Room prices range from €99 to €170
per night. For a longer stay, the Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes also
offers
a private house, The Residence, with 3 bedrooms and living room,
kitchen and laundry available by the week or the month.
Villeneuve-sur-Yonne
is located between Auxerre and Sens and can be a convenient base for
exploring
Burgundy,
Champagne and Loire. Dijon,
Troyes and Fountainbleu are all easily reached by car for day trips.
Auxerre is a beautiful city and Sens has the oldest Gothic Cathedral
in France. If arriving by car, through either gate, to find the Owl’s
Nest turn at the Notre Dame church and just before crossing the bridge
turn down to the river shore. Or you can ask a local barkeep in broken
French or unbroken English. Even if you can’t pronounce “Lucarne
aux Chouettes” the mention of Leslie Caron’s name will elicit
a pointed finger toward to the famous local restaurant on the river,
and if you're asking at the Hotel du Dauphin in town, perhaps that plaintive
look of “we
serve food and have rooms available too”, but c’est la vie. © Bargain
Travel Europe
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See Also:
ABBEY
DE VAULUISANT
Music Festival de Vaulisant
CHÂTEAU
DE FLEURVILLE
Hotel and Restaurant along Burgundy Wine Road
THE
SACRED AND THE PROFANE
Château de Bussy-Rabutin
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