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LESLIE CARON'S OWL'S NEST HOTEL RESTAURANT
Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes in Burgundy

From Gene Kelly’s elegant dance partner in “An American in Paris” and lovely dream girl "Gigi" to keeper of elegant Burgundian restaurant and inn. In 1990, iconic French film “auteur” Jean Renoir told film star Leslie Caron of a unique dilapidated 16th Century boathouse on the Yonne River in the medieval town of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne about an hour from Paris in northwest Burgundy. She bought the place and turned it into her dream restaurant and bed & breakfast style guest hotel “auberge” and has been hosting the well-traveled gourmet ever since. The lovely restaurant with open-beamed ceilings, lush flowers and tree shaded terrace seating facing west across the river where it flows underneath the ageless St. Nicolas Bridge provides a perfect romantic view of a Burgundy sunset while dining on a Michelin Star menu of French cuisine by Japanese master chef, Daïsuke Inagaki. A fascinating seasonal menu of traditional French Cuisine with the occasional twist ranging from Duck Foie Gras to Quail in Sesame Seeds, Guinea Fowl with Truffles to Yakitori and a fine list of regional wines. The Inn is managed by the chef's wife Dominique while the famous movie star owner’s presence is more likely to be found in the photographs and memorabilia on the walls, though you could get lucky.

The town of Villenueve-sur-Yonne was new when founded by French King Louis VII in 1163 at the boundary of Burgundy and Champagne regions and originally named Villenueve-le-Roi (New Village of the King) but was changed during the French Revolution to more egalatarian "sur-Yonne" town on the river. Saint Louis was a resident of the city before departing for the Crusades and a city mayor was infamously guillotined after WWII. The town of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne is still surrounded by a partly intact wall with stone gates at either end north and south, the gates of Sens and Joigny. The Sens Gate dates from the 13th Century and still retains its medieval character, the Gate of Joigny was rebuilt in the 16th century. The city between the gates is easily walked from one end to the other in ten minutes and marked by the gothic Notre Dame and later Baroque church at the center.

The antique character of the town where it resides is retained by the aurberge of the Owls Nest. It’s owner’s love of antiques shows in her personal decoration choices for the four available rooms upstairs from the restaurant. Room prices range from €99 to €170 per night. For a longer stay, the Auberge La Lucarne aux Chouettes also offers a private house, The Residence, with 3 bedrooms and living room, kitchen and laundry available by the week or the month.

Villeneuve-sur-Yonne is located between Auxerre and Sens and can be a convenient base for exploring Burgundy, Champagne and Loire. Dijon, Troyes and Fountainbleu are all easily reached by car for day trips. Auxerre is a beautiful city and Sens has the oldest Gothic Cathedral in France. If arriving by car, through either gate, to find the Owl’s Nest turn at the Notre Dame church and just before crossing the bridge turn down to the river shore. By train is about an hour and a half from Paris (€19) to get from the station takes a bit of a walk or taxi. If lost you can ask a local barkeep in broken French or unbroken English. Even if you can’t pronounce “Lucarne aux Chouettes” the mention of Leslie Caron’s name will elicit a pointed finger toward to the famous local restaurant on the river, and if you're asking at the Hotel du Dauphin in town, perhaps that plaintive look of “we serve food and have rooms available too”, but c’est la vie. © Bargain Travel Europe

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See Also:

ABBEY DE VAULUISANT
Music Festival de Vaulisant

CHATEAU DE SAINT-FARGEAU
Spectacle Show on the Yonne

CHÂTEAU DE FLEURVILLE
Hotel and Restaurant along Burgundy Wine Road

THE SACRED AND THE PROFANE
Château de Bussy-Rabutin

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